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Spent & Seen

Italy

Lake Garda without a car

Five nights in Peschiera del Garda, with day trips by ferry and free shuttle, between a night in Verona and a night in Milan.

Pink bougainvillea covering a stone house in Sirmione
Bougainvillea in the old town of Sirmione.

Lake Garda is easy without a car if you pick the right base. We stayed in Peschiera del Garda, where the train station, the ferry pier and the theme park shuttles are all within walking distance. From there we took the ferry to Lazise and Sirmione and the free shuttles to Gardaland and Movieland, with a night in Verona before and a night in Milan after. We were two, so hotel prices are per room.

The route

StopNightsHow we got thereWhere we stayed
Verona1Flight from ParisHotel Arena
Peschiera del Garda5Train from VeronaMH Hotel Benaco
Milan1Train from PeschieraHotel Wagner

Verona: one night

We flew from Paris to Verona for 49.32 € for two, thanks to a special offer. We stayed at Hotel Arena: 84.81 € for one night for two. A good budget hotel, within walking distance of the city centre, with air conditioning in the room.

The Arena. We walked around the Roman arena, and only once we were there did we find out that it hosts an opera festival every summer. If you plan ahead, an evening at the opera would be a great addition to Verona.

Casa di Giulietta (Juliet's House). We paid 15 € each, and it only took us through a small theatre and out into the courtyard below the famous balcony. In my opinion, it's not worth the money.

Gelato. The best we had in Verona was at Gelato Crea Verona.

The Torre del Gardello and old houses on Piazza delle Erbe, Verona
Piazza delle Erbe, Verona.
The Roman arena of Verona
The Arena.
Juliet's balcony in Verona
Juliet's balcony.
A cup of red sorbet in a Verona street
Gelato from Gelato Crea.

Peschiera del Garda: our base

The train from Verona took us to Peschiera for 6.05 € per person. We stayed at MH Hotel Benaco: 753.50 € for 5 nights for two. A pretty decent hotel with breakfast and air conditioning in the room, which matters a lot in July. It's about a 7-minute walk from the train station, where the shuttles to Gardaland and Movieland leave.

Peschiera is a pleasant base: we walked along the lake, especially in the evening.

  • Gelato: Gelateria La Romana dal 1947. Very good!
  • Restaurants we liked: L'Osteria and Gistrò Cucina & Pizza.
Boats moored under pine trees in Peschiera at sunset
Peschiera del Garda at sunset.
Pastel houses along a canal in Peschiera
The canal in the old town.
Lake Garda and the mountains seen from Peschiera
The lake from the waterfront.

Lazise by ferry

We took the public ferry from Peschiera to Lazise: 24 € for two, return. We simply walked around the old town and the small harbour.

Bell tower and small boats in the harbour of Lazise
The harbour of Lazise.
The castle walls of Lazise seen from the ferry
Lazise from the ferry.

Sirmione by ferry

We also went to Sirmione by public ferry. Count on about 24 € for two, return. A cheaper option: Arriva buses link Peschiera to Sirmione for 2.50 €.

We walked around the old town and past the castle that stands in the water. Sirmione is also known for its thermal spa: it was closed on the day we went, so check its opening days if you'd like to try it.

Sirmione seen from the ferry
Arriving in Sirmione by ferry.
The Scaliger castle of Sirmione rising from the water
The castle in the water.
A street of colourful houses leading to the castle tower
The way to the castle.
A narrow alley with orange and pink houses in Sirmione
A quiet alley.

Gardaland and Movieland

From Peschiera, free shuttles run from the train station to both parks, so you don't need a car. Gardaland is more about rides; Movieland is more about shows and experiences. In July we found very few queues, so we didn't need a fast pass.

The route, tickets, prices and our budget for both parks are in my guide Theme parks without a car.

Milan: one night

The train from Peschiera to Milan cost 13.90 € per person. We stayed at Hotel Wagner: 143.93 € for one night for two. The hotel was okay, but a bit hard to find. It's not in the city centre: we chose it because we had a concert in Milan, and it's on the tram line to the stadium. Milan was just a one-night stopover for us.

Getting around Lake Garda by ferry

  • The public ferries work like buses on the water, linking the towns around the lake. You can buy tickets online, at the ticket office near the pier, or on board.
  • Fares depend on distance. In 2026, a one-way adult ticket costs from 3.50 € to 17.50 €; return tickets cost double. Fast boats (catamarans and hydrofoils) cost extra.
  • To visit several towns in one day, a Lower Lake day pass costs 27 € per adult and lets you hop on and off between the southern towns.
  • In July and August, midday boats from the busiest towns can fill up: arrive at the pier about 30 minutes early or buy online.
  • Check the time of the last ferry back: in summer it's usually around 19:30 from Sirmione.

Our budget

For two people, in July 2026:

ItemCost
Flight Paris to Verona, 2 people49.32 €
Hotel Arena, Verona, 1 night84.81 €
MH Hotel Benaco, Peschiera, 5 nights753.50 €
Hotel Wagner, Milan, 1 night143.93 €
Train Verona to Peschiera, 2 people12.10 €
Train Peschiera to Milan, 2 people27.80 €
Ferry to Lazise, return, 2 people24.00 €
Ferry to Sirmione, return, 2 peopleabout 24 €
Total, without food and theme park ticketsabout 1,120 €

Theme park tickets are in the theme parks guide. We didn't keep track of food, so it isn't included.

What I'd tell a friend

  • Plan ahead in Verona: check the Arena's summer opera programme before your trip.
  • What I'd skip: the paid entry to Casa di Giulietta.
  • Sirmione's spa: check that it's open on the day you visit.
  • Weather in July: hot, so air conditioning at the hotel matters.

PDF guide

Gardaland, Movieland and four more parks without a car

Six European theme parks by train, bus or shuttle: where we stayed, the route step by step, tickets and fast passes, and what we spent.

9 €

See what's inside