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Spent & Seen

Ireland

The pearls of Ireland by bus

Ten days, four main stops, no rental car: Dublin, Killarney, Galway and Donegal, with a ferry, a boat and a bike along the way.

My trip was in 2019. The route and the places haven't changed, but prices and some timetables have, so I show what I paid next to what I found in October 2026. Always check with the operator before you book.

The Cliffs of Moher above the Atlantic
The Cliffs of Moher.

I took this trip on a budget, and I didn't want to drive on the left in a country I didn't know. Everything here is by bus, apart from one improvised day. If you want more comfort, swap the buses for taxis or private transfers and my hostels for hotels.

The route at a glance

DaysStopHow I got thereWhere I stayed
1–2DublinAirport bus 16Ashfield Hostel
3–4KillarneyDublin Coach, route 300Ardree House B&B
4–6GalwayTwo buses, via LimerickSleepzone Galway City Hostel
7–9DonegalBus Éireann, route 64Donegal House
9–10Dublin againBus Éireann, route 30One more night, then home

The places to sleep are from my 2019 notes, so check that they're still open and what they charge now.

The route on a map

The map is loaded from OpenStreetMap, which will receive your IP address when you open it.

  1. 1Dublin, days 1–2: Trinity College, Phoenix Park
  2. 2Killarney, days 3–4: Gap of Dunloe
  3. 3Galway, days 4–6: Cliffs of Moher, Inishmore
  4. 4Donegal, days 7–9: Slieve League, Giant's Causeway (optional)
  5. 5Dublin again, days 9–10

Solid line: bus between stops. Dotted lines: day trips. Lines are drawn straight, not along the real roads, and pin positions are approximate.

What it cost, then and now

Journey or ticketI paid in 2019Checked October 2026
Dublin Airport to the centre, bus 16€3.50About €2 with a Leap Card, a little more in cash
Dublin to Killarney, Dublin Coach route 300€20About €22–35 (journey-planner estimate)
Galway to Donegal, Bus Éireann route 64€19Not found; fares rose in 2025, so check Bus Éireann
Donegal to Dublin, Bus Éireann route 30€15.40About €23.50 for an adult single
Trinity College Old Library€19From €21.50 for a timed ticket

Beds, food, the ferry and bike hire weren't recorded. The same journeys cost noticeably more now than in 2019, so budget more than my numbers suggest.

Dublin

The cheapest way into town is bus 16: it cost €3.50 in 2019. Leave the airport building, cross the road and go through the other terminal to find the stop. It takes about an hour, so sit on the top deck. Raise your hand to stop the bus, or it may drive past.

Beer fans can try the Guinness Storehouse, whiskey fans the Old Jameson Distillery, history fans Dublin Castle. St Stephen's Green is a lovely park for a walk. Trinity College Library is as impressive as the photos; book a timed ticket, and note that the Old Library is going through conservation works.

The Long Room of Trinity College Library
The Long Room, Trinity College Library.
The red front of the Temple Bar pub
Temple Bar, best admired from outside.

The place I loved most was Phoenix Park, where you can feed and pet real deer. They aren't afraid of people, but approach them carefully. Don't skip a free walking tour either; at the end everyone tips the guide a few euros. In the evening, take a photo outside Temple Bar, which is crowded and expensive, and go for a pint at The Oliver St. John Gogarty instead: touristy too, but calmer and cheaper.

Phoenix Park was my little Bambi moment.

Killarney

I booked the Dublin Coach bus online, and I'm glad I did: buses can fill up, and you could wait all day at the stop. Book at least 3 hours ahead. It took me 6 hours, because I travelled at rush hour, the bus stopped in every village, and the narrow roads had traffic jams. A journey planner now estimates about 4h20, so avoid peak hours if you can.

A lake and mountains in Killarney National Park
Killarney National Park.

Rent a bike for the national park. The first stretch is easy; then a small boat carries you and your bike across the lake (Gap of Dunloe Traditional Boat Tours). After that comes a very steep road. I wasn't in great shape, so I pushed the bike, but at the top the view over the Gap of Dunloe is worth it. You ride back on an ordinary road, where drivers respect cyclists.

A lake in the Gap of Dunloe
The Gap of Dunloe.
The winding road through the Gap of Dunloe
The road through the Gap.

Galway, the Cliffs of Moher and the Aran Islands

From Killarney it's two buses, via Limerick, about 4 hours in total. The next day I took a bus to the Cliffs of Moher, the most important part of the whole trip for me. I can't describe how beautiful they are.

Colourful houses on the waterfront in Galway
Galway.

The day after, I took the ferry to the Aran Islands from a small port near Galway. In 2019, booking at the Kinlay House Eyre Square hostel included the bus to the port, so check whether that's still offered. The crossing takes about 45 minutes and the waves are huge, so it's not ideal if you get seasick. On Inishmore, rent a bike if the weather is good: there are many sights from Celtic times, and people speak Irish (and English).

A stone fort on Inishmore
Inishmore.
A cliff edge on Inishmore
Cliff edge on Inishmore.
Church ruins on Inishmore
Church ruins on Inishmore.

Donegal

From Galway I took Bus Éireann route 64 (€19 in 2019). Donegal is a small town in the north of the Republic of Ireland, not in Northern Ireland. There's little to do in town, but you can take a tour or a transfer to the Slieve League cliffs, among the highest sea cliffs in Europe.

A path through hills above the sea in Donegal
Walking in Donegal.

To get back to Dublin, I took Bus Éireann route 30 from Donegal (Abbey Hotel) to Busáras: €15.40 in 2019, about €23.50 now. I recommend one more night in Dublin to rest before flying home.

Optional day: the Giant's Causeway

This was improvised while I was in Donegal: another guest at my guesthouse was going and gave me a lift. It was very impressive. By public transport it's a long day; when I looked into it, it needed 3 buses and about 4 hours each way. I didn't do it that way myself, so check current connections.

The Giant's Causeway seen from above
The Giant's Causeway from above.
The rocky coast at the Giant's Causeway
The coast at the Giant's Causeway.

The Giant's Causeway is in Northern Ireland, part of the UK. Since 2025, most visitors need a UK electronic travel authorisation (ETA) to enter Northern Ireland, even on a day trip from the Republic. British and Irish citizens are exempt, and you don't need one for the Republic. Check the UK government's website for your nationality.

A lift from a fellow guest worked well for me, but use your own judgement, especially if you're travelling alone. The bus is the safer default.

Practical tips

  • Book intercity buses online, at least 3 hours ahead: they can be full.
  • Avoid rush hour on long rides, and ask how many stops the bus makes.
  • Raise your hand to stop a Dublin bus.
  • Charge your phone before long rides: my bus had wifi but nowhere to charge.
  • Think about seasickness before the Aran Islands ferry.
  • Check prices again before you book: the 2026 figures here are a guide.

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